Dog Rabies Basic Facts

Rabies rarely results in human fatalities, but it persists to be a potentially public health problem worldwide. In the US alone, more than 20,000 Americans have to experience rabies treatments every year as a result of exposure to potentially rabid creatures. Foxes, Raccoons, Skunks and Bats are the major wild hosts in the USA, though domestic cats and dogs are also origins of exposure.

Rabies is caused by a virus. It's spread via the saliva of an infected animal and in no other method. All warm-blooded animals can disperse rabies. Rabid animals can infect other animals by biting them. This entails that your dog won't get rabies unless he is in fact bitten by a rabid animal, or infected by the animal's saliva through an open wound.

Rabies also can be conveyed from animals to man from a bite by a rabid animal. The wound is infected with the virus contained in the saliva of the infected animal. The incubation period ranges from ten days to a few months, depending on the position of the bite and how long the virus takes to reach the brain.

There are two types of rabies: furious and dumb. In the former the first symptom is generally a noticeable change in the dog's behavior, that is, from friendly to snappy and offish. The infected dog might become restless and wind off to hide in dark nooks. His voice could undergo a change in pitch or he might howl. He grows irritable. Typically, he wanders far a field and eagerly assaults anything in his path, including people and other animals. Loud noises or bright lights could induce biting seizures. Finally, the disease develops into the paralytic stage. His throat muscles become too paralyzed that he can't swallow and he drools profusely. It is on this period that he seems to be frothing at the mouth. His legs and body become increasingly paralyzed. There is a lack of coordination, then crash, and ultimately coma and death. Sadly, there is no cure for rabies.

When your dog shows any of these symptoms, or if you know he has been bitten by a strange dog, you should handle him using all possible care. Throw a blanket over him (to keep him from biting you when he's grown snappy), gather him up, and shut him out in a room. Then call your vet immediately. If you are bitten, consult your doctor at once and follow his advice.

Several communities today are encouraging owners to have their dogs immunized by sponsoring rabies-control programs, while some have made vaccination mandatory. This cannot eradicate the disease. Vaccination can reach only a few of the dogs in any community. Responsible owners look after their dogs, but right in the very same town or city live irresponsible owners who allow their dogs run the streets and who'd disown them instead of paying license and vaccination fees.

The free-roaming dog is the major source of infection. To help eliminate rabies, fence your yard and exercise your pet only under control. And encourage your neighbor to control his dog as well. Licensing and vaccination don't grant a dog to run free; any wandering dog can still be a neighborhood nuisance.

By Tip Writer

Dog Ear Care Tips

The dog's sense of hearing is more effective than ours; in fact he hears twice keener than man. While the dog has ears are very much like our own, its flaps or leather is rather different from the ear shell of man. Made to capture the sound, it also moves to locate the direction from which sound is coming from.

Selective breeding has led in a wide number of ear types. In certain breeds the flap stands upright or pricked; in others it rises halfway and then tips over. In others still, it is "buttoned" or turned down although slightly raised at the base, while in a lot of breeds it falls flat to the head, while it is said to be dropped. The kind of ear flap appears to have no bearing upon the dog's hearing but it does determine the amount of care required. The drop ear or turned-down flap interferes with ventilation, and must be observed more closely.

When a pup is born, the ears are flat to the head. In breeds whose ears stick up at maturity, ear-cartilage strength changes much during the process of growth that the exact age when the ears must come up can't be stated. They may start to stand quite early in life, then, while the teeth are changing, drop once more or flare around unsteadily for weeks or months, after which they ultimately stand  straight and strong.

During play, a pup may wound an ear tendon. The upright ear might then drop and never recuperate. Some folks have helped weak or injured ears to stand by bracing them using surgical adhesive tape or moleskin. Cut the material you're using into the wanted shape and length, then apply it to the inside of the ear to stiffen it. Most puppies will not mind this much, while others would give you a hard time. The first few hours normally are the worst, and if you are able to get through this initial stage, a big part of the battle is won. How long you must leave the ears set depends on the individual dog. Faulty ear carriage is occasionally fixed within a few days; others call for several weeks and several re-settings. Use an antiseptic when you take off the tape.

 By Tip Writer

Some Facts About the Canine Parvovirus

Canine parvovirus is an extremely contagious viral infection that first came out "out of the blue" in 1978. A series of epidemics spanned across the United States, Australia, Canada, and several European countries, causing a rattling mortality rate. It was particularly grave in young puppies, and spread quickly at dog shows and in places where dogs were housed together, like kennels and pet stores. There's proof now that parvovirus didn't exist before the 1978 epidemic.

 

Parvovirus is spread mainly via contact with the feces of a contaminated animal. A susceptible dog can be infected by ingesting less than a thousandth of a gram of infected fecal material. The virus could also be carried on the hair and feet of infected dogs, and on the clothing and shoes of people who manage them. It can pollute cages and other objects too.

Symptoms come along inside a three to twelve day period and include fever, vomiting, pale gums, and bloody diarrhea. The onset of the disease is sudden and might be preceded by listlessness and loss of appetite. Death may occur in dogs of all ages, though it's more likely in young pups.

 

Success in treatment depends on early and precise diagnosis made by a vet, as death can happen within 2 to 4 days after the onset of the disease. Treatment comprise of intensive fluid and electrolyte replenishment therapy having antibiotics and vitamins. Numerous days of intensive care is often demanded during the crisis period.

When this lethal virus swept the country, scientists immediately started to formulate vaccines. Nowadays, thanks to the development of an effective vaccine, parvovirus is in check. However, it's vital that puppies be immunized at the proper time. A lot of pups are exposed and most susceptible to the virus at a time while they have too few maternal anti-bodies to protect them but too many to allow for a successful vaccination. Decisions about how soon and how often to vaccinate, thence, should be made on an individual basis by the vet in charge of the dog.

The virus causing this disease is among the most hardy and resistant ever known. It can thrive on many surfaces at room temperature and stay infectious for twelve months or longer. It is also resistant to most antimicrobials. You can help bring down contamination, though, by cleaning kennels or other areas the dog frequents using a solution of chlorine bleach.

© 2011 Tip Writer

Download free ebook Parvo Treatment 101 PET Version 

  

Facts About the Dog’s Nose

A dog's sense of smell is so keen that his world is full of scents, others exciting, some soothing, each having a definite message to determine his behavior. When you take your dog out for a walk, watch him closely—to him, half the fun is sniffing areas where other animals, or other dogs, have passed.

Scenting ability differs in certain types of dogs. It appears to be most penetrating in those having long noses, long ears, and pendulous lips, like the hounds and sporting breeds. Shape and color of the nostrils also may be crucial. The keenest noses are usually those whose nostrils are huge, black, and wide open. Exceptions to the color rule are the brown-nosed hunting dogs. An impermanent fading of the nostrils from black to brown is generally caused by some "off" condition; it happens oftentimes to females in season.

The dog in the house, no matter how long his nose is, can distinguish smells to an amazing level. He feels safe and at home on his blankets since they carry his scent. He loves your old coat or sweater to lie on because it bears your scent. If he rides in the car, his head out the window, he recognizes you've turned homewards because he realizes neighborhood scents. It is nearly unbelievable, but true. A dog can smell formic acid, for example, in a solution carrying only one part of the acid in ten million parts of water; and he can know your scent on an object you have held in your hand for a bare two seconds.

Because the nose is also the organ of breathing, it does its greatest work when the nostrils are clean, cool, and mucus-free. The cold nose, being a sign of a healthy dog has been overrated. A huddle beside a radiator or a snooze under blankets could warm the nose of an animal in the best of health. Dryness, nevertheless, generally indicates fever instead of warmth. When in doubt, always take the dog's temperature.

 

Mucus or watery discharge is more serious. It indicates bronchial ailment or distemper, but could also result from a simple cold. Clean off the nose using a soft cloth, take away the mucus within the nostrils using a swab, and then lightly grease them with Vaseline of olive oil to maintain them soft. This is significant in the illness since mucus makes breathing hard and forbids the smelling and tasting of food.

© 2011 Tip Writer

Dog Hairstyling Tips

When it comes to pet grooming, there are certain hairstyles that your dog can sport. You may wish to take a couple of lessons in the art or to allow a professional pet groomer to do the job.

The wiry-coated terriers would need periodic plucking or stripping, likely about two or three times a year, to keep the coat free from snags and hard in texture. When left untrimmed, the hair grows long and thick, causing the dog to be quite uncomfortable. Besides, he looks kind of like a stray rather than a stylish, well-tended pet.

Using a stripping knife or dull penknife held between thumb and forefinger, you will be able to pluck out loosening hairs as the terrier coat is cast. You may do better, however, to take a couple of lessons in the art or to allow a professional pet groomer to do the job. If you want to handle the coat yourself, you can buy trimming guides and charts having excellent directions for every breed at your pet-supply store. You can also purchase the correct tools to do the job the right way.

Certain breeds—Cocker Spaniels, Poodles, and Bichons Frises especially—involve clipping and scissoring expertise, and an amateur might have a difficult time trying to make his dog look right. There are a number of hairdos for Poodles—the Continental, the English Saddle, the Dutch, the Sweetheart, for instance—each one finishing up the dog having a radically different outline. It’s a big job, to be sure; the Poodle has a wealth of coat which should be taken off in some places, left on in others, and shaped based on the particular pattern preferred. Better have this done at the canine beauty shop, then later, maybe, take a few lessons from a professional in the acceptable manner of doing the work yourself.
 
 By Tip Writer

Dental Problems of Dogs

image via Wikipedia

Early adulthood is a sound time to have the teeth checked to make sure that the permanent ones are aligned, not crowded too tightly together, free from disease, and not outworn by gnawing. The quantity of actual tooth decay among dogs is negligible. All the same, the dog's teeth can't repair themselves; once the enamel is worn away, they remain damaged and might need treatment or extraction.

 

Safeguard against tartar, those hard brownish deposit on one or more teeth. The least of its danger is its unsightly color; the real harm is that it threatens the life of the tooth to which it adheres. It's gravest as it pushes into the gum, breaching the membrane which is the tooth's primary brace. Having this support gone, the tooth may loosen and fall out. This condition may not be painful. On the one hand, if food morsels work down into gum cavities and break down to cause abscesses, there would be considerable distress. When tartar is discovered, take the dog to the vet, who can scrape the teeth with expertise before any harm has been done. It's likewise helpful to give some dry meal or biscuits that require chewing.

 

Bones and hard matters are, in a manner of speaking, the dog's toothbrush. Not that they really clean the teeth; they perform an even better service than that. They stimulate the blood supply as they rub all over the gums. Therefore, the gnawing of bones and the chewing of coarse, hard food aids in keeping the entire mouth healthy. That's why as the puppy matures we gradually lay off very moist foods and instead give drier, more crumbly mixtures. And then, while the second teeth are in, we give hard-baked biscuits at times.

All through out the dog's life you might keep his teeth clean by wiping them on a regular basis, using a damp cloth dipped in salt or baking soda, or with a canine toothpaste. A gentle turning motion will stimulate the gums as well as really clean the teeth. The dog used to this attention from puppyhood doesn't object. He relatively enjoys being fussed over.

 

Don't expect the dog to announce dental troubles by crying. He hurts in silence, while rubbing the affected side of his jaw along the floor or maybe pawing it. He eats gingerly, mouthing his food with his lips instead of his teeth. He may drool as well. All of which may indicate a decomposed, broken, or otherwise tender tooth, or maybe a piece of something wedged between two teeth. In any case, it signifies an uncomfortable mouth demanding professional aid.

By Tip Writer

Tips on Caring For Your Dog's Coat

Brushing a dog's hair each day, or every two or three days, based on the length and texture of his coat, is among the most important phases of grooming. It's the best way to help prevent snags from forming and to maintain the skin clean and healthy and free from irritation.

 

Ideally, a specified pattern of hair care is best established when a dog is young, particularly if he will sooner or later have long hair. Learning the right brushing methods while the hair is still short is a fine way for an owner to gain confidence. And it's very easy and pleasant to train a young pup to accept brushing by making a game of the first few sessions. You could put the puppy in your lap or stand him on a solid surface and place your hand under his stomach (to give both support and confidence) as you quickly brush through the coat.

As your dog matures, gradually step-up the length of the sessions. By this time his puppy coat has been substituted by a stronger, tougher kind of hair which, based on breed, may be short, medium, or long. Nearly all coats are two-ply. The long-haired and the medium-haired kinds, particularly, have an outer coat varying in coarseness, and a soft undercoat that's thick and dense.

The short, smooth-haired dogs have a double coat as well. However, it is less detectable because the undercoat is neither downy nor flat-lying. Thus, it's almost impossible to tell the top coat from the undercoat. When the undercoat sheds in warm weather, the major change observed is the thinner covering of the whole.

The coat is considered the dog's complexion. A deep, full, glossy coat usually entails that all is well within; whereas a dry, lifeless coat with hair perpetually shedding implies that something is wrong. Generally, the coat sheds twice each year, spring and fall, although some shedding occurs all the time. Heavy shedding between seasons might be caused by a lack of strength, following an illness, for example, whereas dryness may ensue from too many baths using harsh shampoos, or an overheated apartment. A temporary faded look could merely mean that the old coat is on the wane, since the hair tends to lose its vigor and color just prior to its casting.

By Tip Writer