Feeding the Puppies and the Mother Dog

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On the first few hours after delivery, find out to see that the mother dog bears a sufficient milk supply for the pups. The nursing period begins with the secretion of a watery-milky fluid known as colostrum. On the first twenty-four hours of life, newborn puppies get antibodies from their mother's colostrum which protect them against particular diseases for the first few weeks of life. If the mother doesn't have enough milk, or if there's too large a litter for her to attend to, then you should give extra bottle feedings.

You could use a commercial dog bitch's milk replacer like Esbilac, or you could make your own formula using two teaspoons Karo syrup, two cups whole milk, and two egg yolks. You may also use two parts of evaporated milk to one of water, putting a small amount of Karo syrup and the yolk of an egg. thoroughly mix  and keep the formula inside the refrigerator, heating whatever amount is utilized at every feeding. A puppy nursing bottle or small doll's nursing bottle may be used for hand-feeding. A baby lamb nipple or the anticolic nipple employed for premature babies is the best type for puppies. Be sure that the hole allows the formula to pass through easily but not too fast. For pups raised entirely by hand, the feedings must be given every four to five hours round the clock.

For hand-fed puppies, it is crucial after each nursing to get a swab of cotton, dip it in warm water, and massage the puppy between its hind legs till it has urinated and had a bowel movement. These substitutes as the mother's washing, which maintains the pup clean and the bowels open.

For the first day or two after the whelping, feed the mother meat, egg, milk, and other soft foods. She will decline bulkier food, which will make her have to leave the puppies more a great deal. Soon dog meal may be added. She needs even more food now than when she was in whelp. Ask your vet about extra vitamins and minerals that might be needed. As time goes on, the matron will require more food throughout lactation; she is feeding her growing litter as well as herself, and she must be well-nourished if she's to make sufficient milk for her brood. Feed her a minimum of three times every day plus a bedtime snack if she desires it.

By Tip Writer

What to Do If Your Dog Has Diarrhea

Diarrhea often ensues from several systemic and other problems. It's occasionally caused by bad feeding. If it occurs only once or twice, it could be nothing more than a slight intestinal upset. A sudden shift in diet can bring it on; a swap from one brand of food to another is best done over a period of a few days, the new food gradually blended in increasing amounts with the old. Often diarrhea results from nervousness or fear brought on by unaccustomed journeys or exhilaration. Spoiled food, likewise, will cause it.

Diarrhea can be an sign of canine distemper or canine parvovirus, in which case the fecal matter emit a particularly foul odor. Intestinal parasites like hookworms and whipworms are also a chief cause. Serious diarrhea involving numerous daily evacuations, evil-smelling or blood-streaked stools, must be treated right away by a veterinarian.

Mild or casual cases may be eased by the same treatment as for vomiting: withholding food and water for 12 to 24 hours, giving only ice cubes to lick, then extending water gradually, after a period of time. At the same time, Kaopectate or Donnagel, given based on your veterinarian's instructions, will help to stop the diarrhea and calm the stomach. Begin giving bland food after twenty-four hours.

By Tip Writer

Dog Health Issues: Vomiting

Vomiting often happens in dogs of all ages since the dog can vomit at will. When you dose him with a foul-tasting medicine, he might throw it up simply because he doesn't like the flavor. Give him a piece of candy and probably he will throw this up as well. Occasional vomiting, hence, may just show dislike. It's often induced by grass which the dog eats when his stomach feels uncomfortable.

 

Frequent vomiting, nevertheless, can be a symptom of several diseases, among them canine distemper, kidney and liver disease, canine parvovirus, pancreatitis, and bloat (gastric dilation/torsion complex), also digestive upsets. Overloading the stomach is a popular cause; the cure, give less food fed at more frequent intervals. Relentless vomiting of just a little food may entail a change in diet is necessary. Worms can also be responsible; eliminating them solves the problem. Then there are what may be known as mechanical causes, among them poisoning and drug intoxication.

 

To treat everyday vomiting, keep back food and water for 12 to 24 hours to relieve the stomach. After a period, allow the dog lick a few ice cubes when he is thirsty, then water or Gatorade can be given bit by bit in small amounts. During the fast, an antacid product having a protective coating action, like Pepto-Bismol or Maalox, would help sooth stomach upset. Give one to two teaspoons per 20 pounds of body weight every 4 to 6 hours. After 24 hours, give small quantities of bland food: two parts whole-grain rice mixed with one part lean chopped beef or chicken that was boiled to remove the fat; cottage cheese; cooked egg; or baby cereal.

Don't experiment with the persistent vomiter too long, though. Better consult your veterinarian if it does not clear up within 24 hours. And when blood is vomited, particularly a profuse quantity, or if blood clots are present in the vomitus, seek veterinary help straightaway.

By Tip Writer 

Dog Ear Care Tips

The dog's sense of hearing is more effective than ours; in fact he hears twice keener than man. While the dog has ears are very much like our own, its flaps or leather is rather different from the ear shell of man. Made to capture the sound, it also moves to locate the direction from which sound is coming from.

Selective breeding has led in a wide number of ear types. In certain breeds the flap stands upright or pricked; in others it rises halfway and then tips over. In others still, it is "buttoned" or turned down although slightly raised at the base, while in a lot of breeds it falls flat to the head, while it is said to be dropped. The kind of ear flap appears to have no bearing upon the dog's hearing but it does determine the amount of care required. The drop ear or turned-down flap interferes with ventilation, and must be observed more closely.

When a pup is born, the ears are flat to the head. In breeds whose ears stick up at maturity, ear-cartilage strength changes much during the process of growth that the exact age when the ears must come up can't be stated. They may start to stand quite early in life, then, while the teeth are changing, drop once more or flare around unsteadily for weeks or months, after which they ultimately stand  straight and strong.

During play, a pup may wound an ear tendon. The upright ear might then drop and never recuperate. Some folks have helped weak or injured ears to stand by bracing them using surgical adhesive tape or moleskin. Cut the material you're using into the wanted shape and length, then apply it to the inside of the ear to stiffen it. Most puppies will not mind this much, while others would give you a hard time. The first few hours normally are the worst, and if you are able to get through this initial stage, a big part of the battle is won. How long you must leave the ears set depends on the individual dog. Faulty ear carriage is occasionally fixed within a few days; others call for several weeks and several re-settings. Use an antiseptic when you take off the tape.

 By Tip Writer

Some Facts About the Canine Parvovirus

Canine parvovirus is an extremely contagious viral infection that first came out "out of the blue" in 1978. A series of epidemics spanned across the United States, Australia, Canada, and several European countries, causing a rattling mortality rate. It was particularly grave in young puppies, and spread quickly at dog shows and in places where dogs were housed together, like kennels and pet stores. There's proof now that parvovirus didn't exist before the 1978 epidemic.

 

Parvovirus is spread mainly via contact with the feces of a contaminated animal. A susceptible dog can be infected by ingesting less than a thousandth of a gram of infected fecal material. The virus could also be carried on the hair and feet of infected dogs, and on the clothing and shoes of people who manage them. It can pollute cages and other objects too.

Symptoms come along inside a three to twelve day period and include fever, vomiting, pale gums, and bloody diarrhea. The onset of the disease is sudden and might be preceded by listlessness and loss of appetite. Death may occur in dogs of all ages, though it's more likely in young pups.

 

Success in treatment depends on early and precise diagnosis made by a vet, as death can happen within 2 to 4 days after the onset of the disease. Treatment comprise of intensive fluid and electrolyte replenishment therapy having antibiotics and vitamins. Numerous days of intensive care is often demanded during the crisis period.

When this lethal virus swept the country, scientists immediately started to formulate vaccines. Nowadays, thanks to the development of an effective vaccine, parvovirus is in check. However, it's vital that puppies be immunized at the proper time. A lot of pups are exposed and most susceptible to the virus at a time while they have too few maternal anti-bodies to protect them but too many to allow for a successful vaccination. Decisions about how soon and how often to vaccinate, thence, should be made on an individual basis by the vet in charge of the dog.

The virus causing this disease is among the most hardy and resistant ever known. It can thrive on many surfaces at room temperature and stay infectious for twelve months or longer. It is also resistant to most antimicrobials. You can help bring down contamination, though, by cleaning kennels or other areas the dog frequents using a solution of chlorine bleach.

© 2011 Tip Writer

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Facts About the Dog’s Nose

A dog's sense of smell is so keen that his world is full of scents, others exciting, some soothing, each having a definite message to determine his behavior. When you take your dog out for a walk, watch him closely—to him, half the fun is sniffing areas where other animals, or other dogs, have passed.

Scenting ability differs in certain types of dogs. It appears to be most penetrating in those having long noses, long ears, and pendulous lips, like the hounds and sporting breeds. Shape and color of the nostrils also may be crucial. The keenest noses are usually those whose nostrils are huge, black, and wide open. Exceptions to the color rule are the brown-nosed hunting dogs. An impermanent fading of the nostrils from black to brown is generally caused by some "off" condition; it happens oftentimes to females in season.

The dog in the house, no matter how long his nose is, can distinguish smells to an amazing level. He feels safe and at home on his blankets since they carry his scent. He loves your old coat or sweater to lie on because it bears your scent. If he rides in the car, his head out the window, he recognizes you've turned homewards because he realizes neighborhood scents. It is nearly unbelievable, but true. A dog can smell formic acid, for example, in a solution carrying only one part of the acid in ten million parts of water; and he can know your scent on an object you have held in your hand for a bare two seconds.

Because the nose is also the organ of breathing, it does its greatest work when the nostrils are clean, cool, and mucus-free. The cold nose, being a sign of a healthy dog has been overrated. A huddle beside a radiator or a snooze under blankets could warm the nose of an animal in the best of health. Dryness, nevertheless, generally indicates fever instead of warmth. When in doubt, always take the dog's temperature.

 

Mucus or watery discharge is more serious. It indicates bronchial ailment or distemper, but could also result from a simple cold. Clean off the nose using a soft cloth, take away the mucus within the nostrils using a swab, and then lightly grease them with Vaseline of olive oil to maintain them soft. This is significant in the illness since mucus makes breathing hard and forbids the smelling and tasting of food.

© 2011 Tip Writer

Dental Problems of Dogs

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Early adulthood is a sound time to have the teeth checked to make sure that the permanent ones are aligned, not crowded too tightly together, free from disease, and not outworn by gnawing. The quantity of actual tooth decay among dogs is negligible. All the same, the dog's teeth can't repair themselves; once the enamel is worn away, they remain damaged and might need treatment or extraction.

 

Safeguard against tartar, those hard brownish deposit on one or more teeth. The least of its danger is its unsightly color; the real harm is that it threatens the life of the tooth to which it adheres. It's gravest as it pushes into the gum, breaching the membrane which is the tooth's primary brace. Having this support gone, the tooth may loosen and fall out. This condition may not be painful. On the one hand, if food morsels work down into gum cavities and break down to cause abscesses, there would be considerable distress. When tartar is discovered, take the dog to the vet, who can scrape the teeth with expertise before any harm has been done. It's likewise helpful to give some dry meal or biscuits that require chewing.

 

Bones and hard matters are, in a manner of speaking, the dog's toothbrush. Not that they really clean the teeth; they perform an even better service than that. They stimulate the blood supply as they rub all over the gums. Therefore, the gnawing of bones and the chewing of coarse, hard food aids in keeping the entire mouth healthy. That's why as the puppy matures we gradually lay off very moist foods and instead give drier, more crumbly mixtures. And then, while the second teeth are in, we give hard-baked biscuits at times.

All through out the dog's life you might keep his teeth clean by wiping them on a regular basis, using a damp cloth dipped in salt or baking soda, or with a canine toothpaste. A gentle turning motion will stimulate the gums as well as really clean the teeth. The dog used to this attention from puppyhood doesn't object. He relatively enjoys being fussed over.

 

Don't expect the dog to announce dental troubles by crying. He hurts in silence, while rubbing the affected side of his jaw along the floor or maybe pawing it. He eats gingerly, mouthing his food with his lips instead of his teeth. He may drool as well. All of which may indicate a decomposed, broken, or otherwise tender tooth, or maybe a piece of something wedged between two teeth. In any case, it signifies an uncomfortable mouth demanding professional aid.

By Tip Writer

Tips on Dog Exercise in Urban Areas

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How much and what types of exercises does an adult dog need? Only a few dogs get adequate amounts of exercise. In urban areas, and in busy suburbs, dogs should be exercised on leash, and this takes time. It's time well spent, nonetheless, for exercise is an excellent conditioner. The constant pace of controlled leash-walking is more beneficial than the occasional dashing hither and yon of the yard-confined dog. Moreover, even in a sizable yard, a dog can be as slothful as he wishes.

 

Whenever possible, walk your dog on leash two times every day as far as he will go without appearing tired. Two or three trips along the block each day are more beneficial than three miles on Sundays only, for dogs become accustomed to exercise just as we do. The walk should be as long as the dog's legs—meaning, one city block for the short-legged dog equals many for the long-legged one. If you're uncertain about the distance your dog can walk, begin with a few blocks, then bit by bit increase the distance each day. In addition to leash-walking, your dog must be exercised and played with constantly in his yard, or he can be taken for a free run in woods and fields.

 

Do not feed straightaway before or after exercise. When it's really hot, walk your dog just in the cool of the evening or early morning. Don't expect him to hold his own on icy sidewalks, for he slips easily. If you get caught in a shower, towel him dry when he gets in, and when returning home from a tramp in the woods, check out his feet for mudballs, thorns, or blisters and his coat for burrs and ticks.

© 2011 TW

Tips on Feeding Your Grown-up Puppy

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Most 5-7-month-old puppies won't need the same amount of daily feedings as they did while they were little. Now is the time to cut the bedtime feeding and hand only two meals each day: morning and late afternoon or early evening. The quantity of food he consumes, however, must be increased to cover for the dropped meal and also for his rapid growth places an extra demand on the puppy at this point.

The amount of food needed depends on the individual puppy, the extent of his activity, exercise, size, and weight.

 

A significant point is that about three-fourths of your puppy's diet must consist of a balanced, prepared dog food that will afford him all the needed food elements. You will perhaps be able to determine the amount of food necessary to keep your puppy satisfied and in sound weight, neither too fat nor too thin, by watching him. The feeding chart, according to the puppy's weight and caloric need, can help as a guide.

There is a technique called self-feeding where in dry dog meal is kept out for the dog to gnaw at will. Although self-feeding more often suits to the kennel owner, it can also be conformed to house pets, particularly when the owners are away throughout the day.

Bones—should they or should they not be given to your dog? Let us take into account the negatives: bones give little nourishment, may cause constipation, and can irritate or might tear the digestive tract if swallowed. Uninterrupted gnawing of bones wears down the teeth. On the positive side, bones offer chewing exercise and most dogs savor them greatly. At one time bones were believed quite beneficial for dogs, but today they're looked upon as more high-risk than nutritious. Most pet owners give synthetic or rawhide bones instead to gratify their dogs' chewing urge. If you prefer to give real bones to your dog, though, restrict the number to about one a week. Never give him a bone close his regular feeding time. And only give a well-cooked huge bone, like a beef shank or knuckle bone, that won't splinter. Poultry, chop, and other little bones are a bit sharp; they can splinter or be swallowed and do grave harm.

 

Don't forget that your dog demands water as well as food. In fact, a dog can endure without food a great deal longer than he can without water. Keep fresh water in a bowl where he can drink whenever unless you make it a practice to offer a drink many times a day. The water should be renewed often, especially in hot weather when it can quickly turn warm or fouled by insects.

© 2011 Athena Goodlight

The Advantages Of The Microchip For Your Pets

Every pet owner wants to keep his or her beloved cat or dog as safe as possible. You do everything you can do make sure your pet is well cared for and healthy. If you have an indoor pet, you may not think that keeping identification tags is important, but it is. What if your fuzzy feline accidentally slips out of the door at night and you search to no avail? What do you do, especially if your dog or cat has no identification? Placing a collar with an identification tag is important, but collars sometimes become lost. When you consider the fact that many animal shelters only keep dogs and cats for seven days, you want to make sure that your pet is properly identified. That is where the microchip comes in handy. The microchip is the newest way to identify lost pets and helps ensure that your lost pooch or feline finds his or her way back home.

The technology of the microchip has become so popular that most animal clinics and animal shelters have the ability to scan a cat or dog for microchip identification. If you opt for the microchip, you should know that it is a painless procedure for your pet. Your vet will insert a tiny microchip about the size of a grain of rice directly under your pet’s skin using a hypodermic needle. The microchip is usually placed behind the neck. The microchip contains special digital number that has been entered on a national microchip database. That information will give the person your contact information. When you pet is lost, a veterinarian or animal shelter can use a special scanner to retrieve the microchip information. It is that easy.

Pet owners love the idea of the microchip because it is permanent. You cannot remove the microchip and unlike a collar or tags, it cannot be lost or destroyed. This is one of the best features of pet microchip, especially for cats. If you place a collar on a cat, more than likely it will be a breakaway collar. If your cat climbs a tree, or is caught on something, the collar breaks off. If your cat does not have a microchip, it will be very difficult to identify your cat if it is found.

There are a few important things to remember about pet microchips. First, if your pet gets lost, you should never just sit back and wait for a call, even if your pet has a microchip. Not all veterinarians and shelters are equipped with this technology. You need to take the time to call around and place “lost pet” flyers around your neighborhood. In addition, you need to make sure you take the time to update your contact information should you move. It does little to no good to have your pet implanted with the microchip if the information on the national database is incorrect. Your veterinarian can give you information on how to update this information.


It is important to get your pet implanted with the microchip at a young age. Puppies can have the microchip at age six weeks. Even small breeds of dogs can handle this procedure. Kittens can also undergo this procedure at six weeks. The insertion of the microchip is not painful and feels like a regular vaccination shot. You can have your pet implanted with the microchip at your veterinarian office and can expect to pay between $30 and $50 for this service.

What Are Common Signs of Dogs with Hypoallergenic Problems?

Dogs that have allergies show many signs including watery eyes, coughing and sneezing, excessive scratching and biting, vomiting, diarrhea, fatigue, and moodiness. When your dog is suffering from allergies, you may notice one or more of these symptoms. Learning what causes these allergies is the first step toward treating your dog and preventing further attacks.

Many allergies that dogs suffer from are caused by insects such as fleas and ticks, or by parasites. When you bring your dog home from a breeder or from a shelter or pet store, schedule an appointment with a vet as soon as possible. Make sure the dog has all of its shots and that is has been dewormed. This will prevent parasites from causing an allergic reaction in your dog. While you may have to do this more than once during their lifetime, getting rid of the parasites will help your dog’s temperament and keep them healthy.

If you noticed small red bites on your dog or if the dog has been scratching the same area until bald spots appear, then they may have fleas, ticks, or mites. This allergic reaction is caused by insect saliva. If your dog has open wounds, you should wait until the wounds heal before spraying or bathing them with medicine that kills the insects and their eggs. Take your dog to the vet if this is the first occurrence. The vet may be able to prescribe an ingestible pill that will protect them from future infestation. You may also want to keep your dog indoors during flea and tick season.

When your dog vomits more than once a week or has diarrhea for more than one or two days, they may have an allergy to dog food. Switching to another brand or feeding the dog softer food may solve this problem. You should take the dog to the vet anyway so that they can make sure the dog is healthy. Extreme diarrhea will lead to dehydration, so make sure you have plenty of water for your dog to drink.

If your dog’s mood changes suddenly or you notice that they are not as playful as they once were, then you should take the dog to the vet. If the dog has eaten something it shouldn’t or if it is suffering from allergies, it will not want to play as much as it used to. Finding out the cause of their allergy may be difficult because, much like human beings, your dog may be allergic to more than one thing.
Research your dog’s breed to see if there are specific items it could be allergic to and see if they are present in your home. Monitor your dog to see how it behaves and what it is eating. Sometimes eating too much grass can cause an allergy attack. Once you find the causes of the allergy, take the steps necessary to reduce the dog’s exposure what is causing the allergy as much as possible.